漢服火了！【中國日報】專刊·漢服，適合每一個人穿的衣服！ ...

By Xing Wen | China Daily

Updated: 2018-03-03

One Sunday afternoon a little more than 16 years ago, 17 men and 3 women who stood in a row at the Shanghai Science and TechnologyMuseum were given aworldwide fanfare and it was as much what they were wearing as what they had been talking about that grabbed theworld's attention.

People's Daily reported that the main element was "a satin jacket featuring Chinese-style cotton buttons and round flower patterns with peonies surrounding the four letters of APEC, and a white silk shirt". They came in six colors, scarlet, blue, olive green, brown, burgundy and black.

在16年前的一個星期天下午，17名男性和3名女性在上海科技博物館前排成一行，受到了來自全世界的追捧，正是他們所穿的衣服和他們所談論的東西引起了全世界的關注。

據【人民日報】報道，主要元素是『一件以中式棉質紐扣為特色的緞子夾克和一件圍繞APEC四個字母周圍點綴着牡丹的圓形圖案的白色絲綢襯衫。』 他們有六種顏色，猩紅色，藍色，橄欖綠色，棕色，酒紅色和黑色。

Those who wore these jackets on Oct 21, 2001 were the leaders of the Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation forum economies, holding theirannual meeting in China for the first time since its founding 12 years earlier.

It had become the custom for the leaders to don traditional clothes of the host country on the final day of the forum, and speculation about what form this would take had become a popular guessing game. However, in China that guessing took a serious turn, with earnest debate about what, in this context, the term "traditional Chinese" could possibly mean.

那些在2001年10月21日穿着這些夾克的人是亞太經濟合作論壇經濟體的領導人，他們自12年前成立以來首次在中國舉行年會。

在論壇的最後一天，各國領導人都習慣穿東道國的傳統服裝，關於這將採取何種形式的猜測已成為一種流行的猜謎遊戲。然而，在中國，這種猜測發生了嚴重的轉變，人們就『中國傳統』一詞在這裡可能意味着什麼展開了激烈的辯論。

▲Han cultural activities have frequently been organized by hanfu aficionados inrecent years to promote the traditional culture and clothes of Han people.

（近年來漢族愛好者經常組織漢族的文化活動來推廣漢族的傳統文化和服飾。）

The result was the tangzhuang, a hybrid based on Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) clothing and other, more modern, elements. A little more than 20 years after China began to open up to the world, and just three weeks before it became a member of the World Trade Organization, the aim of the forum organizers was apparently to highlight not only the country's traditions but its modernity as well.

JianhuaZhao, in his book The Chinese Fashion Industry: An Ethnographic Approach, says that the tangzhuang became extremely popular after the APEC meeting, but that in essence it was a fad that lasted for little more than a couple of years, even if the garment has become a set piece in the Chinese wardrobe.

其結果就是唐裝，一種基於清代（1644-1911）服裝和其他更現代的元素的混合物。在中國開始向世界開放的20多年之後，也就是在它成為世界貿易組織成員之前的三個星期，論壇組織者的目的顯然是不僅強調該國的傳統，還要強調其現代化。

Jianhua Zhao在他的英文著作【The Chinese Fashion Industry: An Ethnographic Approach】中說：在APEC會議後，唐裝變得非常受歡迎，但實質上，這是一種持續了幾年的時尚，即使它已經成為中國衣櫥里的一件衣服。

However, the creation of the tangzhuang and the debate surrounding it appear to have been the genesis of a movement whose members show no sign of being content for their preferred garb to be mere space fillers in a wardrobe. These are the aficionados of traditional clothing based on that worn by the country's ethnic majority, the Han,5,000 years ago.

Though the term tangzhuang was deployed to describe the APEC jacket, there was no Chinese word in the early 2000s to denote clothing from the Han Dynasty, and the term eventually coined washanfu(Han clothing). The irony is that what has led to a revival in this centuries-old style of clothing and that keeps the flame flickering is 21st century technology the internet and social networking.

然而，唐裝的創造和圍繞唐裝的爭論似乎是一場運動的起源，其成員沒有表現出將他們首選的外衣僅僅當作衣櫃中的空間填充物的內容。這些都是傳統服裝的愛好者，他們的傳統服裝是以這個國家大多數民族——漢族人5000年前的服裝為基礎的。

雖然唐裝這個詞被用來形容APEC外套，但在21世紀初，沒有漢語單詞來表示漢代的服裝，而這個詞最終被創造出來的是漢服。具有諷刺意味的是，導致這種數百年歷史的服裝風格復興的是21世紀的科技互聯網和社交網絡。

（近年來漢族愛好者經常組織漢族的文化活動來推廣漢族的傳統文化和服飾。）

One aficionado ofhanfuisWang Tianjiao, 24, of Shandongprovince.

"Tieba is where I first learned abouthanfu11 years ago,"Wangsays,referring to the community online forum Baidu Tieba.

"I was absolutely spellbound by this time-honored clothing."

She realized that few of her acquaintances had heard ofhanfu,and all the information she got about it came from Baidu Tieba andthe websitehanchc.com, where a movement to rejuvenatehanfugerminated.

汪天驕，24歲，一位來自山東省的漢服愛好者。

『 貼吧是我11年前第一次了解到漢服的地方，』汪說，她指的是社區在線論壇百度貼吧。

『我完全被這個歷史悠久的服裝迷住了。』

她意識到，她的熟人中很少有人聽說過漢服，她得到的關於它的所有信息都來自百度貼吧和漢網，在那裡，復興漢服的運動開始了。

The dress on which contemporaryhanfuclothing is basedappeared as long as 5,000 years ago and prevailed throughdifferent dynasties in Chinese history until the Manchu establishedthe Qing Dynasty in 1644. The Qing regime banned the wearing ofHan clothes, and for the masses the custom of dressing in suchclothing gradually disappeared.

Four years after Wang came across the Baidu Tieba group, sheattended a hair-pinning ceremony, a traditional rite that marks Hangirls' passage into adulthood, at the Jinan Fuxue ConfuciusTemple, built during the Song Dynasty (960-1279) and restored asa tribute to Confucius in 2005.

Such activities have frequently been organized by hanfuaficionados inrecent years to promote the traditional culture andclothes of Han people.

現代漢服基於的服裝是在五千年前出現的，流行於中國歷史上的各個朝代，直到1644年滿清入關。清朝禁止穿漢族服裝，對廣大群眾來說，穿漢族服裝的習俗逐漸消失。

在汪遇到百度貼吧四年之後，她在宋代（960-1279年）修建於2005年恢復的濟南府學文廟參加了一場傳統儀式，一種標誌着漢族女孩成年的傳統儀式。

近年來，漢服愛好者經常組織這種活動來推廣弘揚漢族傳統文化和服飾。

（近年來漢族愛好者經常組織漢族的文化活動來推廣漢族的傳統文化和服飾。）

Regionalhanfuorganizations have sprung up across thecountry. The annual Hanfu Cultural Festival held in the ancientscenic town ofXitang, Zhejiang province, draws more than 150,000 visitors. The event is streamed live by theonline-broadcasting platform Yingke and in November is said tohave attracted 167,000 viewers over four days.

Wang herself founded ahanfuclub after enrolling at theUniversity of Jinan in Shandong province in 2014. In preparation for its opening she and some friends donned quju, a type ofhanfuwith its right lapel wrapped around the body, and perform-ed dance for the university's art festival. The background musicwas Chong Hui Han Tang ("Dating back to the Han and Tangdynasties"), the theme song sung by a singer called Sun Yi forthehanfumovement.

全國各地都湧現出了區域性的漢服組織。每年一度的漢服文化周在浙江西塘古鎮舉行，吸引了超過15萬遊客參觀。該活動由映客在線廣播平台進行現場直播，據說在11月的四天裡吸引了16.7萬名觀眾。

汪本人在2014年就讀山東濟南大學後，創辦了一家漢服協會。在為開幕做準備的過程中，她和一些朋友穿上了交領漢服，為大學的藝術節表演舞蹈。背景音樂是【重回漢唐】，『我願重回漢唐』，這是一位名叫孫異的歌手為漢服運動演唱的主題曲。

Wang says she encourages club members to wearhanfuon traditional Chinese festivals. For example, on every 12th of the second lunar month, or "flower festival" which, according toChinese folklore, is the birthday of flowers, she holds ceremonie-s with her friends at Daming Lake in Jinan dressed, of course,inhanfu.

"I want to wear it in public so those who are curious about it orthe traditional etiquette behind it can learn about it. The revivalofhanfuis not about turning backthe clock or about cosplay. It's about passing down the culture of the largest ethnic group inChina, which runs from way back to ancient times."

One aspect of passing on that message is making the most of the technology at her disposal, and Wang says she often takes photographs when dressing in hanfu and posts them on SinaWeibo, China's answer to Twitter. She has nearly 70,000followers there.

汪說，她鼓勵協會成員在中國傳統節日裡穿上漢服。例如，每逢夏曆二月十二，也就是中國民間傳說中的『花朝節』，她都會和她的朋友們在濟南的大明湖舉行慶祝儀式，當然，她還是身着一襲漢服。

她說：『我想在公共場合穿這件衣服，這樣那些對它或它背後的傳統禮儀感興趣的人就能了解它。漢服的復興不是復古，亦不是角色扮演。這是關於傳承中國最大民族的文化，這種文化，可以追溯到古代。

傳遞這一信息的一個方面是充分利用所掌握的技術，汪說，她經常在穿着漢服時拍照，並把照片傳到新浪微博上或者中國說法的推特軟件上。她在那裡有近7萬名追隨者。

▲Han cultural activities have frequently been organized by hanfu aficionados in recent years to promote the traditional culture and clothes of Han people.

（近年來漢族愛好者經常組織漢族的文化活動來推廣漢族的傳統文化和服飾。）

A pioneer in promotinghanfuon the internet wasthe websitehanfuhui.cn,which Liu Yinhong, 27, set up four years ago and issaid to now have more than 200,000 registered users.

Liu, of Shenzhen, was well placed to make the marriage betweenhanfuand new technology work, having earlier been a programmerfor a software developing and having coded Web pages in hisspare time.

"At that time,Tiebawas the largest online community for those who love hanfu, and there was no website for it. I wanted to design a platform on whichtongpao(a nickname forhanfulovers) could share pictures, organize online activities and post articles, all abouthanfu."

在網絡上推廣漢服的先驅是漢服薈網站，這是27歲的劉胤宏四年前建立的網站，據說現在已有超過20萬的註冊用戶。

來自深圳的劉先生在把漢服和新技術結合起來方面處於優勢地位，他早些時候曾是一名軟件開發程序員，業餘時間也有編碼網頁。

"當時，貼吧是漢服愛好者最大的在線社區，並沒有網站。我想設計一個平台，在上面同袍（漢服愛好者的暱稱）可以分享關於漢服的圖片，組織在線活動和發表文章。

The site soon branched out into an online discussion board and shopping guide for all thingshanfu.About 80 percent of the users are aged 18 to 28, Liu says.

"The termhanfuextends beyond clothes, covering other cultural treasures such as tea art, archery and the zither."

There are of course moretraditional ways of propagatingthehanfulifestyle, such as on paper.

這個網站很快就發展成為一個在線討論區和漢服購物指南。劉說，大約80%的用戶年齡在18至28歲之間。

『 漢服這個詞，超越了衣服，涵蓋了茶藝，射箭和古箏等其他文化瑰寶。』

當然還有更傳統的方法來傳播漢服生活方式，比如在紙上。